Conrad Gessner
Historiae animalium liber III qui est de Avium natura - 1555
De Capo
transcribed by Fernando Civardi - translated by Elio Corti
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Caporum iuvenum in locis altis degentium caro mediocriter pinguis, caeteris omnibus (gallinacei generis, vel quibusvis avibus potius) praestat, substantiae et qualitatum, et proinde etiam nutrimenti ratione, quod ad homines sanos, Mich. Savonarola[1] ex Isaaco. Ioannes Mesue (inquit idem) huiusmodi capos (caeteris avibus) meliores et leviores esse addit. Capus in quatuor qualitatibus temperatus est, quare multum alit, et venerem auget, Isaac. qui alibi etiam capum avibus omnibus praefert, ut qui melius nutrimentum et perfectum generet sanguinem. Gallinacei (capi) caro bona est, et solidior quam gallinae, Albert. Capo laudatur in cibo circa aetatem sex vel octo vel septem mensium, Arnoldus Villan. |
The
meat of the young capons living in high areas is not very fat, and is
better than all others (of chicken, or better, of any bird) as
composition and quality, and also from a nourishing point of view as far
as healthy people is concerning, Michele Savonarola who draws this from
Isaac Judaeus. Still Savonarola says that John Mesue - perhaps Mesue
the Young - adds that such capons (in comparison with other birds) are
better and easier to be digested. The capon possesses the four types of
humor constituting the temperament, then he nourishes a lot and is
aphrodisiac, Isaac Judaeus. Who also in another passage places the capon
before any bird, being that who gives the best nourishment and a perfect
blood. The meat of the cock (of the capon) is good and more compact than
that of hen, Albertus Magnus. The capon is extolled as food when he is
nearly 6-8-7 months old, Arnaldo from Villanova. |
¶ Pullum farsilem ex Apicio descripsimus in Gallo F.[2] ait autem in capo etiam similiter fieri. De porcello lactente condimentis quibusdam farciendo assandoque, Platinae verba recitavi in Sue F. Idem autem (inquit) fieri potest ex ansere, anate, grue, capo, pullastra. ¶ Apicius lib. 4. cap. 3.[3] in minutal Apicianum testiculos caponum adijcit, gallis nimirum dum castrarentur exemptos. ¶ Fieri ius consumptum, aut ex phasiano, aut ex perdice, aut ex capreolo, aut ex pipionibus, aut ex columbis sylvaticis potest. Si ex capo voles, cacabum sumes, qui aquae metretas[4] quatuor contineat. Huic capum fractis ac comminutis ossibus indes cum uncia succidiae macrae, piperis granis triginta, cinnamo pauco nec nimium tunso, tribus vel quatuor caryophyllis, salviae lacerae trifariam foliis quinque, lauri duobus. Sinito haec efferveant horis septem, vel donec ad duas scutulas vel minus redigantur. Cave salem indas aut salita, si aegrotantium causa fiet. parum aromatum nil vetabit quominus aegroto etiam apponatur. Senibus hoc et valetudinariis detur, Platina[5]. ¶ Ius caponis cum caseo. Ius capi affundito segmentis panis albissimi, et caseum optimum tritum in tyrocnestide[6] inspergito cum pauco polline aromatico dulci, hoc ferculum in lance obtectum apponito, Baltasar Stendelius scriptor Magiricae Germanicus. Idem docet quomodo pastillus e capone fiat. de quo leges etiam in Gallo F[7]. Artocreas de carne vituli, hoedi aut capi elixa, ex Platina recitavimus in Vitulo F. |
¶
In the paragraph F of the chapter devoted to the rooster I described the
stuffed chicken drawing it from Apicius. In fact he says that it can be
prepared in the same way also with the capon. In the paragraph F of the
chapter devoted to the pig I quoted the words of Platina about some
seasonings by which to stuff and roast the sucking piglet. And he says:
The same thing can be made with goose, duck, crane, capon and pullet. ¶
Apicius in the 4th book chapter 3rd adds the
testicles of capon to the fricassee à la Apicius, obviously removed
from the roosters when castrated. ¶
A consommé can be prepared with pheasant, partridge, roe deer,
pigeons or with wild doves. If you want it of capon, you will take a
cauldron which can contain four metretae [34.92 liters] of water. You
will put inside a capon with crushed and minced bones with an ounce
[27.28 gs] of lean lard, thirty grains of pepper, little cinnamon and
not too much crushed, three or four cloves, five leaves of sage
lacerated in three bits, two of laurel. Let these ingredients boil for
seven hours, or until they are reduced into twos small trays or even
less. Keep from putting salt or salty things if it is prepared for ill
people. The presence of some spices won't forbid that it is given also
to a sick person. It must be given to elderly and chronic sick people,
Platina. ¶ Broth of capon with cheese. Pour broth of capon on slices of
very white bread and sprinkle very good grated cheese with little sweet
aromatic dust, serve this course in a tray placing a cover, Balthasar
Staindl, German writer of culinary art. Still he teaches how a pie of
capon can be prepared, about which you can read also in the paragraph F
of the rooster. Drawing from Platina, in the paragraph F of the calf I
reported the pie of bread and meat prepared with boiled meat of calf,
kid or capon. |
¶ Mirause[8] Catellanicum[9]: Catellani gens quidem lauta, et quae ingenio ac corpore Italicae solertiae haud multum dissimilis habetur, obsonium, quod mirause illi vocant, sic condiunt: Capos aut pullastras, aut pipiones bene exenteratos et lotos, in veru collocant: volvuntque ad focum tantisper, quoad semicocti fuerint. Inde exemptos, ac tessellatim divisos, in ollam indunt. Amygdalas deinde tostas sub cinere calido, abstersasque lineo panno, terunt. His buccellas aliquot panis subtosti addunt, mixtaque cum aceto et iure, per cribrum setaceum transmittunt. Posita in ollam haec omnia, inspersaque cinnamo, gingiberi ac saccaro multo, tandiu effervere simul in carnibus procul a flamma lento igne permittunt, quoad ad[10] iustam cocturam pervenerint, miscendo semper cum cochleari, ne seriae adhaereant. Hoc nihil suavius edisse memini. Multi est alimenti, tarde concoquitur, hepar et renes concalefacit, corpus obesat, ventrem ciet, Platina. Idem lib. 6. Cap. 41. et 42. cibaria alba, sive leucophaga, delicatissima, ex pectore capi parare docet[11]. et rursus lib. 7. cap. {48}<69>.[12] cibarium croceum ex eodem. Eiusdem libri cap. 49.[13] esitium quoddam ex carne describens, Sunt etiam (inquit) qui pectus capi tunsi non incommode addant. Esitium ex pelle caporum ab eodem praescribitur lib. 7. Cap. 55.[14] |
¶
Catalan mirause: The Catalans, a polished people indeed and who are
thought not very dissimilar in character and body traits from Italic
ingeniousness, season in the following way a dish they call mirause:
they place on the spit capons, or pullets, or pigeons well cleaned from
entrails and well washed, and turn them on the fire until are half
cooked. After removed them from fire and squared them off, they place
them into a pot. Then mince almonds toasted under hot ash and cleaned
with a flax cloth. They add morsels of just toasted bread, and pass the
things mixed with vinegar and broth through a horsehair sieve. After
they placed into a pot all these ingredients and sprinkled with cinnamon,
ginger and a lot of sugar, they let them boil together with meat away
from flame on a slow heat until they did reach a right cooking, stirring
all the time with a spoon so that they don't stick to the pot. I don't
remember to have eaten something sweeter than this dish. It is very
nourishing: it is slowly digested, heats liver and kidneys, fattens the
body, moves the bowels, Platina. Still he, 6th book, chapters
41 and 42, teaches to prepare white foods with the breast of capon, or leucophaga,
very delicate. And still in the 7th book, chapter 69, a food
of capon with saffron. Still in the 7th book, chapter 49,
when describing a meat dish, he says: Rightly some add also the breast
of a crushed capon. Still by him in the 7th book, chapter 55,
a course is told made with skin of capon. |
¶ Aloisius Mundella Dialogo 3. scribit se aegroto cuidam febri continua maligna laboranti, cum iam signa concoctionis apparerent, modo turdum, modo unum aut alterum ovi vitellum, modo caponis carnem contusam concessisse, potius quam vituli. Idem Dialogo 1. describens historiam iuvenis cuiusdam biliosi febricitantis continue a se curati, Victus ratio (inquit) fuit caro caponis iuvenis, per diem ante mactati, cum seminibus melonum contusa: nec non panis in eiusdem iure optime incoctus, ad virium (quae debiles in eo valde erant) robur conservandum. |
¶
Luigi Mondella in 3rd dialogue of Dialogi medicinales
decem writes that he allowed a patient suffering from a malignant
continuous fever, since the signs of the marasmus were by now appearing,
now a thrush, now one or two egg yolks, now minced flesh of capon rather
than of veal. Still he in 1st dialogue of Dialogi
medicinales decem writes, when describing the clinical course of a
jaundiced youth with continuous fever he had treated, says: The base of
the feeding has been flesh of young capon killed the day before, minced
with melon seeds: as well as bread overcooked in broth of the same capon
with the purpose of preserving the vigor of the strength (which in such
sick person was very enfeebled). |
G. |
G |
Obscuri
quidam authores caponi attribuunt vires medicas ex Dioscoride et aliis
authoribus, quas illi gallinaceis adscripserant: quoniam per imperitiam
linguae Latinae gallinaceum interpretantur caponem. ¶ Leonellus
Faventinus electuarium quoddam phthisicis praescribens, quod valde
praedicat, immiscet in id pulpam caponis pinguis et bene cocti, incisam
contusamque in mortario lapideo, etc. Medici quidam quoties deiectas
vires aegrotantium excitare volunt, medicamentum dant quo ex carnibus
caponum et perdicum conficitur, quod facile corrumpitur, si aliquo
notabili tempore moretur: neque etiam in aegrotos alit, neque ut quae
prius diximus, (vinum, ova sorbilia, testes gallinacei,) Aloisius
Mundella Dialogo 3. Ius caponis mire restaurans vires, si vel
cochlearium parvum inde aegrotus sorbeat. Capum veterem para, exentera,
totum cum ossibus comminue. Tum in vase bene obturato vitreo aut stanneo
per sex horas bulliat, adiecto etiam auro, ut annulis vel
nomismati<bu>s aureis, Obscurus. Capo generosus in aqua pura
discoquitur cum foliis bor<r>aginis et buglossi, ana manip. j.
conservarum de violis, rosis, bor<r>agine et buglosso, ana unc. ij.
adijciatur etiam nonnihil de illis quae cordialia vocant contritum.
destillatum inde liquorem in diplomate (balneo Mariae) cum pulvere
diasantalon[15]
mixto propter odoris gratiam, propinabis creberrime, And. a Lacuna circa
finem libri de peste. Sunt qui in quibusvis morbis,
capitis praesertim, et frigidis, et cum virium imbecillitate,
destillatas huiusmodi caponum aquas laudant, et nos colicis affectibus
aliquando prodesse experti sumus, iis maxime qui flatuosi fuerint. aqua
enim destillata aphysos[16]
redditur, ut non amplius inflet, si recte parata fuerit, adijcientur
autem medicamenta alia atque alia a perito medico pro affectuum
varietate. Plura leges in Thesauro Euonymi Philiatri[17]. |
Some
not too much known authors ascribe to the capon medicinal faculties
inferring them from Dioscorides and other authors who attributed them
to the rooster: the reason is in the fact that because of a scarce
knowledge of the Latin language they translate rooster with capon. ¶
Leonello Vittori,
when prescribing for phthisical sick people an electuary he praises
quite a lot, he there mixes pulp of fat and well cooked capon, cut and
crushed in a mortar of stone, etc. Some physicians, every time they want
to stimulate the exhausted energies of sick people prescribe a medicine
prepared with meat of capon and partridge, which easily goes bad if
unused for too much time: and which so doesn't nourish the sick people,
as not even those other things I said before (wine, sucking eggs,
testicles of rooster), Luigi Mondella in 3rd dialogue of Dialogi
medicinales decem. The broth of capon restores the strength in a
marvelous way if a patient drinks even only a teaspoon of it. Make ready
an old capon, empty him of entrails, shred him along with his bones.
Then he has to boil for 6 hours in a well sealed up container of glass
or tin, also adding gold, like rings or gold coins, an unknown author.
You have to cook in pure water a plump capon along with a handful each
of leaves of borage and
bugloss, two ounces each [around 50 g] of
preserve of violets, roses, borage and bugloss, you have to add also a
little mush of those substances they call cordials. Then you will give
very often to drink the liquid which has been distilled in a vessel with
two containers (bain-marie) mixing powder from three kinds of
sandal
because of the pleasantness of its scent, Andrés de Laguna, toward the
end of his book on plague. In whatever pathology, above all of the head,
and of cold nature, and which is accompanied to exhaustion, some are
praising the so distilled water of capon, and I
might experiment that sometimes they are useful in case of
illnesses of the colon, especially in those people who show flatulence.
For the distillate becomes unable to give flatulence, so that doesn't
make to inflate further on, provided that it has
been correctly prepared, for by the experienced physician
different kinds of medicines will be added according to the sort of
pathology. You can read quite a lot on the subject in Thesaurus
Euonymi Philiatri. |
[1] Practica medicinae sive de aegritudinibus (1497) Tractatus II, cap. I, rubrica VI. - Invece di in locis altis degentium Savonarola ha in campis altis habitantium.
[2] A pagina 388.
[3] De re coquinaria IV,3,3: Minutal Apicianum: oleum, liquamen, vinum, porrum capitatum, mentam, pisciculos, isiciola minuta, testiculos caponum, glandulas porcellinas. haec omnia in se coquantur. teres piper, ligusticum, coriandrum viridem vel semen. suffundis liquamen, adicies mellis modicum et ius de suo sibi, vino et melle temperabis. facies ut ferveat. cum ferbuerit, tractam confringes, obligas, coagitas. piper aspargis et inferes.
[4] Per motivi di ragionevolezza adottiamo come metreta culinaria quella egiziana per il vino, pari a circa 8,73 litri.
[5] VI,42 Ius consumptum.
[6] Il sostantivo greco femminile tyróknëstis significa grattugia.
[7] A pagina 389.
[8] Nel testo anonimo in catalano Sent Sovi (1324) suona come Mig-raust. Mastro Martino, dal quale il Platina ha tratto la ricetta, in italiano medievale lo chiama Mirrause e Roberto di Nola nel suo testo in catalano scrive Mirraust. Mig raust in tedesco visigoto significa mezzo arrostito, come mi ha specificato Marie Josèphe Moncorgé in una preziosa e-mail del 16 agosto 2005: “En effet, mig raust = à moitié rôti, en allemand wisigoth. Comment ce mot a-t-il survécu jusque dans une recette catalane du 14e? En tous cas, mig raust devient mirrause chez Martino, mirrauste chez Robert de Nola, miraus chez Scappi.” – Nella trascrizione del testo di Roberto di Nola a mia disposizione (Lybre de doctrina Pera ben Servir: de Tallar: y del Art de Coch) sta scritto Mirraust, e non una volta sola, ma credo che il vocabolo possa considerarsi equivalente a Mirrauste.
[9]
In Platina - Libellus platine de honesta
voluptate ac valitudine,
Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499 - esiste solo
catellonicum:
VI,12 Mirause catellonicum
VI,32 Patina catellonica
VI,41 Cibarium album catellionicum – che però suona catellonicum
nell’indice
VII,60 Carabazum catellonicum
VII,72 Leucophagum catellonicum
L’aggettivo sostantivato Catellani – e non Catelloni - è usato da
Platina in Liber VI,12 – Mirause
catellonicum – Catellani gens quidem lauta: et quae ingenio ac
corpore italicae solertiae haud multum dissimilis habetur obsonium: quod
mirause illi vocant: sic condiunt [...]
A pag. 389 Gessner usa
catellonicum di Platina:
Ex capis aut pullastris Mirause Catellonicum, Platinae verbis
describemus in Capo F.
Catellonicum potrebbe essere una comune variante di catellanicum, salvo che
in questo caso il Catellanicum di
Gessner sia un puro errore tipografico.
[10] Platina - Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine, Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499 - ha quo ad, diversamente da come riporta Gessner.
[11] In Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine (Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499) libro VI il cap. 40 è intitolato Cibaria alba e il cap. 41 Cibarium album catellionicum. Il testo a disposizione di Gessner era discordante da quello edito da Platonide circa la numerazione dei capitoli.
[12] In Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine (Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499) libro VII il cap. 69 è intitolato Cibarium croceum.
[13] La citazione di Gessner corrisponde a quella del Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine (Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499) libro VII cap. 49 Esicium ex carne.
[14] La citazione di Gessner corrisponde a quella del Libellus platine de honesta voluptate ac valitudine (Bononiae, per Johannem Antonium Platonidem, 1499) libro VII cap. 55 Esicium ex pelle caporum.
[15] In base alla ricetta contenuta nel trattato di Joannes Actuarius De medicamentorum compositione tradotto da Jean Ruel (Parisiis, apud Iacobum Bogardum, 1546), pagina 12 bis, si tratta dell'unione di tre tipi di sandalo: rosso, bianco e citrino. - Pastillus Diasantalôn, id est, e santalis, stomachi robur firmat, calorem iocinoris mulcet. Santali rubri, candidi et citrini, rosarum,[...].
[16] L’aggettivo greco maschile e femminile áphysos significa non ventoso, non flatulento.
[17] È il trattato sulla distillazione di Conrad Gessner Thesaurus Euonymi Philiatri de remediis secretis del 1552; il II volume venne pubblicato postumo nel 1569 dall’amico e collega Caspar Wolf.