Conrad Gessner
Historiae animalium liber III qui est de Avium natura - 1555
De Gallina
transcribed by Fernando Civardi - translated by Elio Corti
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Pascitur et
dulci facilis gallina farina, | Pascitur et tenebris. ingeniosa gula
est, Martialis sub lemmate Gallina altilis[1].
Interdictum est lege C. Fannii consulis, ne quid volucrum poneretur,
praeter unam gallinam quae non esset altilis, Plin.[2]
Capos et gallinas saginare ligur<r>itores ipsi invenere, quo
unctius ac lautius devorarent, Platina. Gallinas saginare Deliaci
coepere: unde pestis exorta, opimas aves et suopte corpore unctas
devorandi. Foeminae quidem ad saginam non omnes eliguntur, nec nisi in
cervice pingui cute. Postea culinarum artes, ut clunes spectentur, ut
dividantur in tergora, ut a pede uno dilatatae repositoria occupent. Dedere et Parthi cocis suos mores, Plinius[3]. Hyeme melius quam
aestate saginatio fiet, probabiliorque erit fartura, Platina. Gallinae
et capi impinguantur cito, si cerevisia eis in potu apponatur pro aqua.
Vide plura superius in Capo E. |
The
hen is easily nourished also
with the sweet meal, | she is also nourished by darkness. The palate is
ingenious, Martial
at the item Hen to be fattened. By the law of Caius Fannius
was
forbidden of putting in table any bird except for only a not fattened
hen, Pliny.
They have been the
gluttons themselves who invented the fattening of capons and hens, in
order to gorge themselves in a more delicious and sumptuous way, Platina. They have been the inhabitants of
Delos
who began to
fatten the hens, whence arose the very bad practice of eat fat poultry
basted in its own greasy. To say the truth, not all the hens are chosen
for being fattened, but only if they have fat skin on the neck.
Afterwards the culinary arts got involved so that the legs were looking
well, so that they were bending at the sides of the back, so that
stretched beginning from a leg they were filling the whole dish of
course. Even the Parthians
gave their customs to the cooks. The
fattening will take place better in winter than in summer, and they will
become fat more probably, Platina. The hens and the capons
fatten
quickly if beer is given to drink in place of water. See more data in
what has been said previously in the paragraph E of the capon. |
Pinguem
quoque facere gallinam, quamvis fartoris, non rustici sit officium,
tamen quia non aegre contingit, praecipiendum putavi. Locus ad hanc rem
{desyderatur} <desideratur> calidus maxime, et minimi luminis, in
quo singulae caveis angustioribus, vel sportis inclusae pendeant aves,
sed ita coarctatae, ne versari possint. Verum habeant ex utraque parte
foramina. Unum, quo caput exeratur: alterum, quo cauda, clunesque, ut et
cibos capere possint, et eos digestos sic edere, ne stercore
coinquinentur. Substernatur autem mundissima palea, vel molle foenum, id
est cordum. Nam si dure cubant, non facile pinguescunt. Pluma omnis e
capite, et sub alis atque clunibus detergetur. Illic ne pediculum creet,
hic ne stercore loca naturalia exulceret. Cibus autem praebetur ordacea
farina, quae cum est aqua conspersa et subacta, formantur offae, quibus
aves saginantur. Eae tamen primis diebus dari parcius debent, dum plus
concoquere consuescant. Nam cruditas miranda est maxime, tantumque
praebendum, quantum digerere possint. neque ante recens admovenda est,
quam tentato gutture apparuerit nihil veteris escae remansisse. Cum
deinde satiata est avis, paululum deposita cavea dimittitur, sed ita ne
vagetur: sed potius, si< >quid est, quod eam stimulet aut mordeat,
rostro persequatur. Haec
enim fere communis est cura farcientium. Nam illi, qui volunt non solum
opimas, sed etiam teneras ave{i}s efficere, mulsa {recente}
<recenti> aqua praedicti generis farinam conspergunt, et ita
farciunt. nonnulli tribus aquae partibus unam boni vini miscent,
madefactoque triticeo pane obesant avem, quae prima luna (quoniam id
quoque custodiendum est) saginari coepta, vigesima pergliscit, Columella[4]. |
Also
to fatten a hen, although this is a task of he who by profession fattens
them and not of the farmer, nevertheless, since it is not a hard work, I
reckoned proper to teach it. For this purpose is required a very warm
place and with very little light, in which the hens have to stay
individually hanging and shut up in rather narrow cages or in baskets,
but kept in the narrow so that they cannot move. However they must have
available holes at two extremities. A hole through which the head is let
out: the other through which the tail and the buttocks escape, in such a
way that they are able both to take food and to expel that digested
without fouling themselves with dung. Very clean straw has to be spread
under them or soft hay, that is, late.
In fact if they lie down on hard they don't easily fatten. All the
feathers from the head have to be removed, from under the wings and from
buttocks: in the first two places so that they don't give birth to lice,
in the latter place in order to not create with the dung ulcerations in
the region roundabouts the cloaca. As food is given barley
meal which,
after has been wetted and kneaded with water, is shaped in pellets by
which the hens are fattened. However in the first days they have to be
given with a certain parsimony, until when the hens don't get used to
digest a greater quantity of them. In fact we have to watch out a lot
for indigestion and to give them just enough they are able to digest.
And new food has not to be given before we won't be sure, by feeling the
crop, that there old food has not remained. When then the hen is
satisfied, the cage is
lowered and she is allowed to go out for a little bit, without allowing
her to go away, but only so that she can chase with the beak something,
if there is, bothering or pestering her. In fact this is roughly the way
in which have to act the fatteners. In fact those people who want not
only to make fat the hens, but also tender, wet the meal of the
above-mentioned kind with fresh water mixed to honey, and they fatten
them in this way. Some mix a part of good wine with three parts of water
and after they wetted bread of wheat
they fatten the hen, who, having
started to be fattened at the beginning of the new moon (in fact we have
also to consider this), after twenty days she comes at the end of the
fattening, Columella. |
Gallinae
saginantur maxime villaticae. Eas includunt in locum tepidum, et
angustum, et tenebrosum, quod motus earum, et lux pinguitudini inimica,
electis ad hanc rem maximis gallinis, nec continuo his, quas Melicas
appellant, cum Medicas deberent, Varro[5].
Antiquissimum est maximam quanque avem lautioribus epulis destinare. Sic
enim digna merces sequitur operam et impensam, Columella. Amplas omnes e
villaticis, evulsis (pennis extremis, Florentinus) ex alis pinnis, et
cauda, farciunt turundis hordeaceis partim admistis ex farina loliacea,
aut semine lini ex aqua dulci: (Alii tritici pollinem miscent. Sunt qui
his omnibus infundant vinum, Florentinus.) Bis die cibum dant,
observantes ex quibusdam signis, ut prior sit concoctus, quam secundum
dent. Dato cibo, tum perpurgant caput, ne quos habeant pedes, et rursus
eas concludunt. Hoc faciunt usque ad dies viginti quinque. Tum denique
pingues fiunt. Quidam ex triticeo pane intrito in aquam, mixto vino bono
et odorato farciunt, ita ut diebus viginti pingues reddant ac teneras.
Si in farciendo nimio cibo fastidiunt, remittendum in datione pro
portione, sic ut decem primis processit, in posterioribus ut diminuat
eadem ratione, ut vigesimus dies et primus sit par, Varro. Si fastidiet
cibum, totidem diebus minuere oportebit, quot iam farturae processerint:
ita tamen, ne tempus omne opimandi quintam et vigesimam lunam
superveniat, Columella. |
Above
all are fattened the courtyard's hens. They shut up them in a lukewarm,
narrow and dark place, since their moving and the light are enemies of
the obesity, and for this purpose the larger hens have to be chosen, and
not necessarily those they call Melicae, while they should be
called Median,
Varro. It is a very ancient custom to assign any very
large hen to the more sumptuous banquets. In fact so a right profit is
coming hence for the carried out work and the sustained expense,
Columella. They fatten all the bulky courtyard's hens, after they
removed the feathers from the wings (the peripheral feathers,
Florentinus) and from the tail, with mashes of barley partly mixed with
meal of darnel or with
flaxseed in sweet water (others mix superfine
flour of wheat, some pour wine in all these ingredients, Florentinus).
They feed twice a day, keeping in mind some signs, that the previous
food has been digested before giving the next one. Once the food has
been given, then they polish up the head so that they don't have any
lice, and newly they shut up them. They do this for 25 days. Then
finally they become fat. Some fatten them with wheat's bread soaked in
water mixing good and perfumed wine, so to make them fat in the turn of
20 days, and tender. If during the fattening they are finicky because of
too much food, it has to be proportionally reduced, in such a way that
as it has been increased in the first 10 days, the same it must be
decreased in the following days, so that the twentieth and the first day
are corresponding, Varro. If the hen will become finicky towards the
food, it will be advisable to reduce it for so many days already passed
from when we started to fatten them: nevertheless in such a way that the
fattening time doesn't go beyond the 25th day of the moon,
Columella. |
Caeterum
maior pars milio alunt gallinas, Florentinus. Gallinas et anseres sic
farcito: Gallinas teneras, quae primum parie{ri}nt, concludas, polline,
vel farina ordacea conspersa, turundas facias: eas in aquam intinguat,
et in os indat: paulatim quotidie addat, et ex gula {consyderet} <consideret>,
quod satis fiet. Bis in die farciat, et meridie bibere dato. nec plus
aquam ante (in vase appositam) sinas quam horam 1 {j}. Eodem modo
anserem alito, nisi prius dato bibere bis in die, et bis escam, Cato[6]. |
On
the other hand, the generality feeds the hens with millet, Florentinus.
Fatten hens and geese in the following way: you have to shut up the
young hens as soon as they will start to lay, prepare mashes by wetting
superfine flour or meal of barley: dip the mash in water and shove it
into the mouth: add it bit by bit every day and judge according to the
crop if it will be sufficient. Stuff them twice a day, and gives them to
drink at midday. And don't allow them to have in front water (put in a
container). for more than a hour. Nourish in the same way the goose, but
only having first given her to drink twice a day, and twice the food,
Cato. |
¶
Febrientibus magis conveniunt gallinae castratae, quanquam veteres
castrationis earum non meminerunt. ego castratas domi alo, quarum caro
albior, melior et friabilior est. Facile et cito coquuntur, et tenerae
fiunt et gratae palato, Mich. Savonarola[7]. |
¶
For those people having fever the castrated hens are more suitable,
although the ancients didn't make mention of their castration. In my
house I am raising castrated hens and their meat is more white, better
and friable. They easily cook and quickly, and become tender and
pleasant to the palate, Michele Savonarola. |
¶
Si cibus deesse sentiatur apibus, ad fores earum posuisse conveniet
crudas gallinarum carnes, et uvas passas, etc. Plinius[8]. |
¶
If you were under the impression that the bees lack food, near the entry
of their nest it will be worthwhile to have put raw meat of hen and
raisin, etc., Pliny. |
¶
Albuminis usus. Aurum marmori et iis quae candefieri non possunt,
ovi candido illinitur, Plinius[9].
Candidum ex ovis admixtum calci vivae glutinat vitri fragmenta, vis vero
tanta est ut lignum perfusum ovo non ardeat, ac ne vestis quidem
contacta aduratur, Plin.[10]
Aurum ovatum ex Grammaticis quidam dictum volunt, quoniam ovi albo antea
illito, aera ac marmora auri et argenti laminis decorarentur. Papaver
candidum panis rustici crustae inspergitur affuso ovo inhaerens, etc.
Plinius. Pharmacopolae ut serapia et alias potiones clariores reddant,
ovi albumine, aliquando etiam testis pariter utuntur, decocto interim
agitando inijcientes. Ovi albumen ex aqua frigida scopulis agita, donec
in spumam abeat, quam particulatim syrupo, vel alteri decocto ferventi
inspergas: et ubi nigruerit, cochleari foraminulento deradas, novam
inspergas: id fac donec erit syrupus clarior. [Iac.
Sylvius] |
¶
Use of the albumen. The
gold is smeared on marble and on those things which cannot be made
incandescent, by the use of egg white, Pliny. The white obtained from
eggs mixed with quicklime joins the fragments of glass: in truth the
strength in it is so great that a wood piece sprinkled with egg doesn’t
burn, and even a clothing smeared with it doesn’t catch fire, Pliny.
Some grammarians are thinking that eggy gold took the name from the fact
that bronzes and marbles were decorated with gold and silver leaves
after egg white was first smeared. The seeds of the white poppy - Papaver
alpinum - are sprinkled on the crust of homemade bread after egg has
been shed on it to which they glue, etc, Pliny. The apothecaries to make
more clear syrups - see serapium - and other potions use egg
white and sometimes the shells too, plunging them into meanwhile are
mixing up the decoction. Shake with small brooms the egg white in cold
water until became a foam which you add little by little to a syrup or
another decoction while boiling: and when it darkened they remove the
foam with a perforated spoon, add some new foam: continue to do so until
the syrup became more clear, Jacques Dubois. |
[1] Epigrammi XIII, 62, Gallinae altiles. Pascitur et dulci facilis gallina farina, | pascitur et tenebris. Ingeniosa gula est.
[2] Già citato a pagina 387.
[3] Naturalis historia X,139-140: Gallinas saginare Deliaci coepere, unde pestis exorta opimas aves et suopte corpore unctas devorandi. Hoc primum antiquis cenarum interdictis exceptum invenio iam lege Gai Fanni consulis undecim annis ante tertium Punicum bellum, ne quid volucre poneretur praeter unam gallinam quae non esset altilis, quod deinde caput translatum per omnes leges ambulavit. [140] Inventumque deverticulum est in fraudem earum gallinaceos quoque pascendi lacte madidis cibis: multo ita gratiores adprobantur. Feminae quidem ad saginam non omnes eliguntur nec nisi in cervice pingui cute. Postea culinarum artes, ut clunes spectentur, ut dividantur in tergora, ut a pede uno dilatatae repositoria occupent. Dedere et Parthi cocis suos mores. Nec tamen in hoc mangonio quicquam totum placet, clune, alibi pectore tantum laudatis. § Non si capisce in cosa consista la scappatoia stando alle parole di Plinio. Per la legge Fannia non si poteva porre in tavola alcun volatile eccetto una gallina che non doveva essere stata ingrassata. Ma i galli, nutriti con cibi inzuppati nel latte per renderli di sapore più raffinato, erano anch'essi dei volatili, salvo che li facessero passare per galline asportando cresta e speroni, oppure che i cibi inzuppati nel latte fossero capaci - ma non lo erano - di castrarli e di farli somigliare a galline. Misteri interpretativi! Oltretutto, grazie al latino di Plinio, quae non esset altilis potrebbe magari tradursi con gallina che non fosse grassa = che doveva essere grassa, come ci permettiamo noi italiani di usare il non con il condizionale con finalità affermative anziché negative. Ma se la gallina doveva essere grassa, addio parsimonia nelle spese per le mense, perché ingrassare un volatile costa di più.
[4] De re rustica VIII,7,1-5:
[1] Pinguem quoque facere gallinam, quamvis fartoris, non rustici sit
officium, tamen quia non aegre contingit, praecipiendum putavi. Locus ad
hanc rem desideratur maxime calidus et minimi luminis, in quo singulae
caveis angustioribus vel sportis inclusae pendeant aves, sed ita coartatae
ne versari possint. [2] Verum habeant ex utraque parte foramina, unum quo
caput exseratur, alterum quo cauda clunesque, ut et cibos capere possint et
eos digestos sic edere ne stercore coinquinentur. Substernantur autem
mundissimae paleae vel molle foenum, id est cordum. Nam si dure cubant, non
facile pinguescunt. Pluma omnis e capite et sub alis atque clunibus
detergetur, illic ne pediculum creet, hic ne stercore loca naturalia
exulceret. [3] Cibus autem praebetur hordeacea farina, quae cum est aqua
consparsa et subacta, formantur offae, quibus avis salivatur <aves
saginantur>. Hae tamen primis diebus dari parcius debent, dum plus
concoquere consuescant. Nam cruditas maxime vitanda est, tantumque
praebendum quantum digerere possint. Neque ante recens admovenda est quam
temptato gutture apparuerit nihil veteris escae remansisse. [4] Cum deinde
satiata est avis, paululum deposita cavea dimittitur, et ita ne evagetur,
sed potius, si quid est quod eam stimulet aut mordeat, rostro persequatur.
Haec fere communis est cura farcientium. Nam illi qui volunt non solum
opimas sed etiam teneras avis efficere, mulsea recenti aqua praedicti
generis farinam conspargunt, et ita farciunt. nonnulli tribus aquae partibus,
unam boni vini miscent, madefactoque triticeo pane obesant avem, quae prima
luna (quoniam id quoque custodiendum est) saginari coepta vicensima
pergliscit. [5] Sed si fastidiet cibum, totidem diebus minuere oportebit
quot iam farturae processerint, ita tamen ne tempus omne opimandi quintam et
vicesimam lunam superveniat. Antiquissimum
est autem maximam quamque avem lautioribus epulis destinare. Sic enim digna
merces sequitur operam et inpensam.
[5]
Rerum rusticarum III,9,19-21: De tribus generibus gallinae saginantur maxime
villaticae. Eas includunt in locum tepidum et angustum et tenebricosum, quod
motus earum et lux pinguitudinis vindicta, ad hanc rem electis maximis
gallinis, nec continuo his, quas Melicas appellant falso, quod antiqui, ut
Thetim Thelim dicebant, sic Medicam Melicam vocabant. Hae
primo dicebantur, quae ex Media propter magnitudinem erant allatae quaeque
ex iis generatae, [20] postea propter similitudinem amplae omnes. Ex iis
evulsis ex alis pinnis et e cauda farciunt turundis hordeaceis partim
admixtis farina lolleacia aut semine lini ex aqua dulci. Bis die cibum dant, observantes ex quibusdam signis ut prior sit concoctus,
antequam secundum dent. Dato cibo, quom perpurgarunt caput, nequos habeat pedes,
rursus eas concludunt. Hoc faciunt usque ad dies XXV; tunc denique pingues
fiunt. [21] Quidam et triticeo pane intrito in aquam, mixto vino bono et
odorato, farciunt, ita ut diebus XX pingues reddant ac teneras. Si
in farciendo nimio cibo fastidiunt, remittendum in datione pro portione, ac
decem primis processit, in posterioribus ut deminuat eadem ratione, ut
vicesimus dies et primus sint pares. Eodem modo palumbos farciunt ac reddunt pingues.
[6] Non si procede a emendare
tutti i verbi alla II oppure alla III persona singolare. Però si traduce
con la II persona singolare nonostante l'imperativo farcito sia
adatto sia per l'una che per l'altra. - De agricultura, 89: Gallinas
et anseres sic farcito. Gallinas
teneras, quae primum parient, concludat. Polline vel farina hordeacia
consparsa turundas faciat, eas in aquam intingat, in os indat, paulatim
cotidie addat; ex gula consideret, quod satis sit. Bis in die farciat et
meridie bibere dato; ne plus aqua sita siet horam unam. Eodem modo anserem
alito, nisi prius dato bibere et bis in die, bis escam.
[7] Mai sentito dire che si castrassero anche le galline, nonostante sia possibile. Non si è mai finito d’imparare! Forse l’eviratore di galline era il medico Michele Savonarola, nonno del famosissimo Girolamo. Le galline castrate furono decantate anche dal medico e poeta Giovanni Battista Fiera. Si veda Aldrovandi a pagina 294: Sic humens Gallina vices huic cedet honoras | Vel nigra, vel partus sit licet indocilis. – Michele Savonarola Practica medicinae sive de aegritudinibus (1497) tractatus ii, cap. i, rubrica i: Infertur tertio quod febrientibus competunt magis gallinae iuvenes castratae. Nec miretur quisque de castratura gallinarum: nam satis habeo in domo. Et sine dubio caro earum est albior, et mollior, et frangibilior: et statim cum sunt decoctae sunt tenerae et esui delectabilissimae: remque istam ut expertam scribo. - Practica canonica (1560) de febribus, cap. iv, de diaeta febrium in universali, rubrica ii de cibis temperatis: Pullus moderate pinguis, qui non coire coeperit. Capones & caponissae moderate pingues.
[8] Naturalis historia XXI,82: Si cibus sentiatur deesse apibus, uvas passas siccasve ficos tusas ad fores earum posuisse conveniat, item lanas tractas madentes passo aut defruto aut aqua mulsa, gallinarum etiam crudas carnes. quibusdam et aestatibus iidem cibi praestandi, cum siccitas continua florum alimentum abstulit. Alvorum, cum mel eximatur, inlini oportet exitus melissophyllo aut genista tritis, aut medias alba vite praecingi, ne apes diffugiant. Vasa mellaria et favos lavari aqua praecipiunt, hac decocta fieri saluberrimum acetum.
[9] Naturalis historia XXXIII,64: Marmori et iis, quae candefieri non possunt, ovi candido inlinuntur, ligno glutini ratione conposita; leucophorum vocant. quid sit hoc aut quemadmodum fiat, suo loco docebimus. Aes inaugurari argento vivo aut certe hydrargyro legitimum erat, de quis dicemus illorum naturam reddentes.
[10] Naturalis historia XXIX,51: Et, ne quid desit ovorum gratiae, candidum ex iis admixtum calci vivae glutinat vitri fragmenta; vis vero tanta est, ut lignum perfusum ovo non ardeat ac ne vestis quidem contacta aduratur.